Carpet Express' Flooring Blog

Although we’ve been an authorized Stanley Bostitch retail/repair center for quite some time now, we just recently added the tools to our website. You can view a partial list of the hardwood flooring nailers and staplers we have available here. Remember this is not a complete list at the time being, so if you don’t find what you’re looking for, chances are we still carry it. Give us a call at (800) 922-5582 to be sure.

Although we do not feature any flooring accessories or trim pieces on our website, this does not mean that we don’t carry them. In fact, Carpet Express stocks a wide variety of Hardwood Flooring trim pieces and accessories. We’d like to mention a few here (you can find pictures at the bottom of this post):

• Threshold – For use with sliding glass doors adjacent to a hardwood floor or as a transition between carpet or ceramic tile. Fasten down with adhesive and/or nails.
• Quarter Round – Covers the space between the wall and hardwood flooring. Must be pre-drilled and nailed to the vertical surface, not to the floor
• T-Molding – For use as a threshold where two floors of similar thickness join. Fasten down with adhesive and/or nails.
• Stair Nosing – Add a professional look to steps and stairways. Fasten down with adhesive and nails.
• Reducer Strip – Use it at thresholds to connect a hardwood floor to vinyl or low-pile carpet. Fasten down with adhesive and/or nails.

These are just some of the options you have availabe in hardwood flooring trim and accessories. If you have something in mind that we didn’t mention here, ask us about it.

This is another great article taken from DoItYourself.com:

Some people think that a few squeaks in a floor give a home character, to others squeaks are a major pain in the neck. If you agree with the folks who think floors just shouldn’t make any noises, you may be in luck. As long as you have access to the underside of that squeaky floor, you can probably fix your squeak. Unfortunately however, if you have finished ceilings below your squeaky floor, your chances of being able to fix it without taking on a major project are hit and miss.

What causes squeaky floors?

Floors squeak because something is moving. The main culprits are:

• the edges of sheets of subfloor rubbing against each other (because
• loose nails are allowing the boards to move)
• rubbing between tongue and groove wood that has dried a little over time leaving a gap for movement
• floor joists shrinking away from floorboards overtime leaving a small gap that squeaks when you put weight on it. The fix is simple, stop the movement and you will stop the squeak. You stop the movement by nailing or screwing the boards, shimming under the joists or adding bracing between the joists. The challenge is to figure the cause and get access to fix it.

To read the entire article, follow this link:
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/silencesqueakyfloor

Question: I have a question for you concerning hardwood installation. We have a large space that makes up several rooms. We are thinking about laying one section out in a diagonal (I know it makes things difficult). But my question is this: Between the “straight” area and the diagonal I was going to install a perpendicular board as a transition. Do I need that, or can you butt up the edge of the diagonal board to the straight one? In either case, do I need to slot the end of the cut diagonal board to accept the groove (of either the transition board or the straight boards)? If so, what is the best way to do that?

Thanks,
Mark

Answer: Mark,

I think what you’re asking is how to join the diagonal wood to the wood that is straight. First of all, you don’t have to make a new tongue or groove to join the two together. You could put a board between the two, or you could use a t-mold between both ends. Either way should give you a nice transition.

Let us know if you need any help.

Sincerely,
Mike Jones

Question: Can you give me any pointers on installing your hardwood flooring on a diagonal???? This is a bedroom with two door ways, one meeting tile the other going into a living area which will get hardwood down the road. Thanks for any pointers!!!!!

Sincerely,
-Charlie

Answer: Installing wood in a diagonal or 45 degree pattern is quite a task. The most important thing is to take your time in plumming out the room.

The easiest way to get your 45 degree angle is to go to the corner of the room (with a 90 degree angle) and measure three feet from the corner of the wall down the edge of the wall. Make a mark as close to the wall as possible. Staying in the same corner, measure three feet down the other (adjourning) wall, and make your next mark as close to that wall as possible. Now plum a line to both marks and this should form a triangle in that corner. This will give you a 45 degree angle and this should also be your starting point.

This is a pretty tough task, and since there’s no way I can cover everything in one paragraph, feel free to call me with any other questions. You can also go to www.nofma.com for pictures and more details.

Thanks!
-Mike Jones

First of all, I believe a consumer needs to understand what cabin or tavern grade wood is. It will consist of mineral streaks, knots, worm holes, missing tongues, off-shades, splits, and other blemishes. Always allow 15% for waste when using a Cabin or Tavern grade.

When installing this type of material, work out of 5-6 boxes at a time. You need to inspect each board before installing so you can cut out major defects and use those boards for either starter boards or end boads. Try to use the best looking boards in the middle of the room and in main traffic areas.

Use all other boards closer to the outer walls where they will be covered by couches, chairs, TVs, or other furniture. If possible, put the most defective boards in closets or underneath appliances.

The main thing is to be willing to accept the natural characteristics of the wood. If you take the time to preplan your installation, you should end up with a floor that you will enjoy and admire.

Above, Mike Jones demonstrates a nail down installation to a group of Do-It-Yourself students. Besides squaring the room properly and correct installation techniques, Mike shows how to get the least waste and the best look out of cabin grade wood. The students were pleased to learn that with proper tools and expert advice, hardwood installation is a fairly easy procedure.