Carpet Express' Flooring Blog

Question: I am considering Mohawk Wunda Weve Highrise Retreat carpet for the dining and family room. I would appreciate comments regarding the quality and wear ability of this carpet.

Thank you,
K.

Answer: This carpet is in the Premier Series from Wunda Weve, and should provide long lasting durability. I would highly recommend using a certified installer for Highrise Retreat, because of the pattern. This type of carpet is a good example of why carpets need to be power stretched, and not knee kicked.

Also, being a Weardated nylon, this carpet should keep its beauty for years to come.

Thanks for the question,
Jim Young, Jr.

Ever wondered what style of carpet is right for your home? Often times, this is quite a hard decision. So you’ve picked out a color, now what? Or you know what style of carpet you want, but can’t decide what type of fiber fits your needs.

Whatever the case may be, we have a new, handy carpet selection guide that walks you through some of the facts on carpet. It offers an overview of carpet styles, textures, and fiber content, as well as dye methods. Check it out if you have any questions on how to choose the right carpet:

The Carpet Express Guide to How to Choose the Right Carpet

Question: When you say “prices listed are cut prices,” what does that mean? Does that include the pad and installation? For example, I see a Stainmaster saxony carpet for $38.95 a sq-yd. Is that just the carpet price or does it include installation and pad?

-Russell

Answer: Cut pricing means buying less material than is on the standard roll. For transparency in our prices, materials and installation are priced separately. Roll sizes from most manufacturers are between 134 square yards and 200 square yards per roll, depending upon the style and weight of the carpet. As a rule, higher end carpet usually has only one price.

If you have a style in question, please call me at (800) 922-5582 or email jim@carpetexpress.com and I will be happy to answer any questions you may have.

Best regards and thanks for the quesion,
Jim Young, Jr.
Carpet Express, Inc.

Question: Should an installer check for moisture before installing Dura Ceramic on a concrete basement floor before installing?

-Jeanette

Answer: Installation issues should be checked out by the installer before any product is installed. Without knowing if the store you purchased from sold the installation with the job, or if you paid the installer directly, I can’t say if the company that sold the product is responsible or not. The installer should have used a moisture meter before installation, I believe, to make sure the product could be installed on the floor.

-Jim Young, Jr.
Carpet Express, Inc.

Question: Which product, ceramic tile or laminate flooring, will survive in a house in Wisconsin without heat in the winter months? We go south in the winter.

-Eileen
Fennimore, Wisconsin

Answer: Without heat in a home in Wisconsin, I really could not suggest ceramic or laminate. Any moisture that gets into these products could freeze and cause the tile to break or the laminate to buckle. A porcelain tile would be the best product to use, since it should not crack in freezing weather.

Thanks for the question!
Jim Young, Jr.
Carpet Express, Inc.

Question: How do I know how much carpet I need?

-Scott
Dalton, Georgia

Answer: You usually need abut 10% more carpet, and about 5% more pad, than the actual square footage you are covering. However, the following steps are absolutely necessary in order to purchase the correct amount of carpet and pad needed for your job.

First, make a simple drawing of all the areas to be covered. Include, for example, living room, den, halls, master-bedroom, 2nd and 3rd bedrooms, and closets. Then measure each room in feet and inches, and add to sketch. Now you are ready to insert the carpet into the rooms.

Be sure you know the width of your carpet. Also, remember it is usually best for carpet in adjoining rooms to run the same direction. All carpet within the same room must run the same direction.

Installation can be a bit tricky, but if you take your time and actually draw out the carpet to be cut, and place the cuts in the appropriate room, it will make more sense to beginners. Be sure to save the waste from one room to use in another room or closet. Also, try to keep seams out of door ways.

Always remember to check your square footage to be covered against the amount of carpet your installer or dealer says you need. If it’s more than 10-15% extra, this should be a HUGE RED FLAG.

If you have any questions, or need help with your measurements, feel free to contact us at (800) 922-5582. We’ll be glad to help.

Loose Lay vinyl is becoming more popular today because of the ease of installation. It doesn’t require as much floor preparation and eliminates expensive adhesives. The one thing that might make the do-it-yourselfer a little nervous is seams.

When making a seam, there is a few small tricks to help relieve this fear. The first is to make sure to match the pattern up correctly. You can do this by overlapping one sheet over the other at a grout line in the pattern. Make sure you have the pattern repeat correct. Some 9″ patterns may have a 27″ pattern repeat. If you will cut the top sheet just a hair shorter on both ends, then you can see to match up the grout line perfectly. (Make sure your quarter round will cover these cuts.)

Now you are ready to cut through both pieces at the same time. This is what we call a double cut. (DO NOT cut each edge separately and then try to butt them together. This will not work – it will cause bubbles at the seam.) Use a chisel point utility knife with a new blade to make this cut. Using a metal straight edge, you will want to make this cut in the middle of the grout line, following the edge of your straight edge. Hold your knife straight up-and-down and apply enough pressure to cut through both pieces. If you have to move your straight edge, do not remove the knife from the cut. Simply slide the straight edge down and let the knife be the start of the alignment to continue the cut.

After you have completed the cut, fold back the top layer, and then the bottom layer, gently. (Please make sure that you don’t move them when folding back.) Apply to the floor a clear, double faced tape, recommended by the manufacturer. Now fold back the bottom layer, always starting at the middle of the seam area and working your way back to the ends. Do the same with the other side, making sure to just let the vinyl fall into place. Do not push toward or away from the seam – the vinyl should line up naturally. Apply a small amount of pressure to the seam to stick the vinyl to the tape underneath.

All manufacturers have a recommended seam sealer that needs to be applied at the seam. Apply this seam sealer to the cut area, making sure to use just enough sealer to cover both edges of the cut. Don’t over-apply the sealer, letting it overflow onto the pattern. Let the sealer dry properly. This should make a beautiful seam, that will be free from bubbles and last a lifetime.

Question: I have just had Karndean Knight Tile DP-55 installed in my kitchen.  Please advise me how to clean and maintain it and what products you suggest.

Thank you,
Jacques
Rockville, MD

Answer: We advise that you use Karndean One Step Routine Cleaner to clean your floor. Non-Karndean cleaning products may contain some agents that can damage the floor.

Thanks for the question.
Jim Young, Jr.

Question: I have a question for you concerning hardwood installation. We have a large space that makes up several rooms. We are thinking about laying one section out in a diagonal (I know it makes things difficult). But my question is this: Between the “straight” area and the diagonal I was going to install a perpendicular board as a transition. Do I need that, or can you butt up the edge of the diagonal board to the straight one? In either case, do I need to slot the end of the cut diagonal board to accept the groove (of either the transition board or the straight boards)? If so, what is the best way to do that?

Thanks,
Mark

Answer: Mark,

I think what you’re asking is how to join the diagonal wood to the wood that is straight. First of all, you don’t have to make a new tongue or groove to join the two together. You could put a board between the two, or you could use a t-mold between both ends. Either way should give you a nice transition.

Let us know if you need any help.

Sincerely,
Mike Jones

Question: My wife and I are building a new home. To save money, we decided to make a few upgrades ourselves (myself) instead of having the builder charge us for them. My first project will be to build a mantel and tile surround for our fireplace. Basically I need to remove a small section of  carpet (about 6′x2′) for the tile in front of the fireplace. It will be located on one end of a fairly large carpeted room (about 20′x15′). To be clear, I’ll be removing abour 6′ in the middle of a 15′ wall.

My question: Is it going to be a major task re-stretching the carpet for the whole room after I’m done with the tile, or will it mostly stay in place because it will still be attached at the wall on either side of the fireplace? Is there any risk of ripping or damaging the carpet by cutting inside corners while it’s in tension? I actually feel pretty confident about finishing the edge up to the tile, I’m just worried about causing problems to the carpet in the entire room.

If all it will require is a little knee-kicking, I fell OK doing it myself. Otherwise, I’ll probably have a professional installer do it. If this job will require the help of a professional, should I consult him before starting? Or can I just cut the carpet, leaving extra room, lay my tile, and then call him to have it re-stretched and finished?

Thanks for your help
Brian

Answer: Brian,

I understand that you want to remove your carpet away from one wall so that you can install some ceramic tile in front of your fireplace. If this is correct, then yes, I would recommend that you power stretch your carpet back into place. This will prevent bubbles in the future, especially around the new tile in front of the fireplace. You can rent a power stretcher (they’re not that hard to operate), or you can hire a professional installer. Also, you can look online at www.doityourself.com for more info.

-Mike Jones